.travel-article{--read:#e9e5ee;--rail:#bdb8c6;--hair:#26252e;--col:minmax(0,40rem);padding-bottom:110px;overflow-wrap:break-word}.travel-article>*,.travel-grid>*{min-width:0}.travel-head{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) var(--col) minmax(0,1fr);column-gap:clamp(28px,4vw,64px);padding:clamp(56px,8vw,120px) 0 clamp(36px,4vw,56px)}.travel-head>*{grid-column:2/4;max-width:56rem}.travel-head__kicker{margin:0 0 22px;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:6px 14px;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--rail)}.travel-head__kicker a{min-height:32px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;color:var(--fg);text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--accent-2)}.travel-head__kicker a:hover{color:#fff}.travel-head__kicker span:not(:first-child):before,.travel-head__kicker a+span:before{content:"";display:inline-block;width:18px;height:1px;margin:0 14px 3px 0;background:var(--surface-line);vertical-align:middle}.travel-head h1{margin:0;max-width:20ch;font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:440;font-size:clamp(2.35rem,4.6vw,4.4rem);line-height:1.02;letter-spacing:-.045em;text-wrap:balance}.travel-head__standfirst{margin:26px 0 0;max-width:40ch;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:clamp(1.15rem,1.6vw,1.42rem);line-height:1.48;letter-spacing:-.005em;color:#d9d4df;text-wrap:pretty}.travel-byline{margin-top:34px;padding-top:20px;border-top:1px solid var(--hair);display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto minmax(0,1fr) auto;gap:16px;align-items:center}.travel-byline__portrait,.travel-byline__monogram{width:52px;height:52px;border-radius:50%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 30%;background:var(--neutral-block)}.travel-byline__portrait{filter:grayscale(.35) contrast(1.05);box-shadow:0 0 0 1px #f5f2f72e}.travel-byline__monogram{display:grid;place-items:center;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.05rem;font-weight:560;letter-spacing:-.02em;color:var(--fg);border:1px solid rgba(245,242,247,.24)}.travel-byline__monogram--desk{font-size:1.5rem;font-weight:620;background:linear-gradient(135deg,#315cff52,#050507e6 55%,#ff2fb342)}.travel-byline__text p{margin:0}.travel-byline__name{font-size:.98rem;line-height:1.4;color:var(--rail)}.travel-byline__name a{color:var(--fg);font-weight:560;text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(245,242,247,.35)}.travel-byline__name a:hover{border-color:var(--fg)}.travel-byline__role{display:block;margin-top:1px;font-size:.84rem;color:var(--rail)}.travel-byline__meta{margin-top:6px!important;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:4px 0;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--rail)}.travel-byline__meta>*+*:before{content:"·";margin:0 .7em;color:var(--surface-line)}.travel-byline__copy{width:44px;height:44px;display:inline-grid;place-items:center;border:1px solid var(--hair);border-radius:50%;background:transparent;color:var(--fg);cursor:pointer;transition:border-color var(--fast) var(--ease-out),color var(--fast) var(--ease-out)}.travel-byline__copy:hover{border-color:var(--fg)}.travel-byline__copy[data-copied]{color:var(--accent-2);border-color:var(--accent-2)}.travel-lead{position:relative;margin:0;aspect-ratio:2/1;max-height:min(74vh,720px);width:100%;overflow:hidden;background:var(--neutral-block)}.travel-lead img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 42%;filter:saturate(.86) contrast(1.06)}.travel-lead:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;pointer-events:none;box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px #ffffff14;background:linear-gradient(180deg,transparent 62%,rgba(5,5,7,.55) 100%)}.travel-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) var(--col) minmax(0,1fr);column-gap:clamp(28px,4vw,64px);padding:clamp(48px,6vw,88px) 0 0;align-items:start}.travel-body{grid-column:2;grid-row:1}.travel-contents{grid-column:1;grid-row:1;justify-self:end;width:min(100%,15rem);position:sticky;top:28px}.travel-rail{grid-column:3;grid-row:1;width:min(100%,19rem);display:grid;gap:36px}.travel-rail__label{margin:0 0 12px;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--rail)}.travel-contents ol{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;counter-reset:toc}.travel-contents li{counter-increment:toc;border-top:1px solid var(--hair)}.travel-contents a{min-height:44px;padding:10px 0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:2.2em 1fr;font-size:.86rem;line-height:1.35;color:var(--rail);text-decoration:none}.travel-contents a:before{content:counter(toc,decimal-leading-zero);font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.68rem;padding-top:.15em;color:#7d7887}.travel-contents a:hover{color:var(--fg)}.travel-context{padding-top:16px;border-top:1px solid var(--hair);font-size:.86rem;line-height:1.55;color:var(--rail)}.travel-context__desk{margin:0 0 16px}.travel-context a{min-height:40px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;color:var(--fg);text-underline-offset:.25em}.at-a-glance{padding:22px 22px 18px;background:#0c0c12;border:1px solid var(--hair);border-top:2px solid var(--accent-2)}.at-a-glance h2{margin:0 0 14px;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.7rem;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--fg)}.at-a-glance dl{margin:0}.at-a-glance dl>div{padding:11px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--hair)}.at-a-glance dt{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.64rem;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--rail)}.at-a-glance dd{margin:4px 0 0;font-size:.98rem;line-height:1.45;color:var(--fg)}.at-a-glance dd a{color:var(--fg);text-underline-offset:.22em}.at-a-glance__checked{margin:12px 0 0;padding-top:10px;border-top:1px solid var(--hair);font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--rail)}.travel-body{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:1.1875rem;line-height:1.72;letter-spacing:.002em;color:var(--read);font-feature-settings:"kern","liga"}.travel-body :where(p,ul,ol,blockquote,pre,table,figure){margin:0 0 1.25em}.travel-body>p:first-of-type{font-size:1.33rem;line-height:1.6;color:var(--fg)}.travel-body>p:first-of-type:first-line{font-weight:560}.travel-body>p:last-of-type:after{content:"";display:inline-block;width:.5em;height:.5em;margin-left:.45em;background:var(--accent-2);vertical-align:.08em}.travel-body a{color:var(--fg);text-decoration-color:#ff2fb3a6;text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-underline-offset:.2em}.travel-body a:hover{text-decoration-color:var(--fg)}.travel-body strong{font-weight:600;color:var(--fg)}.travel-body :where(h2,h3){font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:480;color:var(--fg);scroll-margin-top:28px;text-wrap:balance}.travel-body h2{margin:2.1em 0 .6em;padding-top:.75em;border-top:1px solid var(--hair);font-size:clamp(1.6rem,2.4vw,2.05rem);line-height:1.12;letter-spacing:-.03em}.travel-body h3{margin:1.7em 0 .5em;font-size:1.3rem;line-height:1.2;letter-spacing:-.015em}.travel-body :where(ul,ol){padding-left:1.2em}.travel-body li{margin:.35em 0;padding-left:.2em}.travel-body li::marker{color:var(--accent-2)}.travel-body blockquote{margin:1.8em 0;padding:0 0 0 24px;border-left:2px solid var(--accent-2);font-size:1.45rem;line-height:1.4;letter-spacing:-.015em;color:var(--fg)}.travel-body blockquote p{margin:0}.travel-body :where(pre,.table-wrap){max-width:100%;overflow:auto}.travel-body pre{padding:18px;background:var(--neutral-block);border:1px solid var(--hair);font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.82rem}.travel-body table{display:block;max-width:100%;overflow:auto;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:.92rem;line-height:1.45}.travel-body :where(th,td){padding:10px 12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--hair);text-align:left;vertical-align:top}.travel-body th{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.68rem;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--rail)}.travel-body img{width:100%;height:auto}.travel-body figcaption{margin-top:8px;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.04em;color:var(--rail)}.travel-end{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) var(--col) minmax(0,1fr);column-gap:clamp(28px,4vw,64px);margin-top:clamp(56px,6vw,80px)}.travel-end>*{grid-column:2}.travel-end__credit{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto minmax(0,1fr);gap:20px;align-items:start;padding:26px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--fg);border-bottom:1px solid var(--hair)}.travel-end__portrait,.travel-end__monogram{width:72px;height:72px;border-radius:50%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 30%}.travel-end__portrait{filter:grayscale(.35) contrast(1.05);box-shadow:0 0 0 1px #f5f2f72e}.travel-end__monogram{font-size:1.4rem}.travel-end__credit p{margin:0}.travel-end__name{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.3rem;font-weight:520;letter-spacing:-.02em}.travel-end__name a{text-decoration:none}.travel-end__name a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.travel-end__role{margin-top:2px!important;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--rail)}.travel-end__bio{margin-top:10px!important;max-width:58ch;font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.6;color:var(--rail)}.travel-end__share{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:8px;padding:18px 0}.travel-end__share .travel-rail__label{margin:0 10px 0 0}.travel-end__share a,.travel-end__share button{min-height:40px;padding:0 14px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;border:1px solid var(--hair);border-radius:999px;background:transparent;color:var(--fg);font:inherit;font-size:.84rem;text-decoration:none;cursor:pointer;transition:border-color var(--fast) var(--ease-out)}.travel-end__share a:hover,.travel-end__share button:hover{border-color:var(--fg)}.travel-end__share [data-copied]{border-color:var(--accent-2);color:var(--accent-2)}.travel-related{margin-top:clamp(64px,7vw,104px);padding-top:28px;border-top:1px solid var(--hair)}.travel-related h2{margin:0 0 26px;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.72rem;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--rail)}.travel-related ol{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,minmax(0,1fr));gap:36px 24px}.travel-related ol[data-count="3"]{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}.travel-related ol[data-count="2"]{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.travel-related ol[data-count="1"]{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,26rem)}.travel-related a{display:grid;gap:10px;text-decoration:none}.travel-related__media{display:block;aspect-ratio:3/2;overflow:hidden;background:var(--neutral-block);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px #ffffff14}.travel-related__media img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;filter:saturate(.76) contrast(1.06);transition:filter var(--normal) var(--ease-out)}.travel-related__media--empty{background:linear-gradient(126deg,#315cff47,#050507eb 50%,#ff2fb338)}.travel-related a:hover img{filter:saturate(1) contrast(1.1)}.travel-related__format{margin-top:4px;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.64rem;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--rail)}.travel-related strong{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.12rem;font-weight:480;line-height:1.25;letter-spacing:-.015em}.travel-related a:hover strong{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:.2em;text-decoration-thickness:1px}.travel-desk-more{margin-top:56px;display:flex;justify-content:center}.travel-desk-more a{min-height:44px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;padding:0 24px;border:1px solid var(--fg);font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;text-decoration:none;transition:background var(--fast) var(--ease-out),color var(--fast) var(--ease-out)}.travel-desk-more a:hover{background:var(--fg);color:var(--bg)}@media(max-width:1100px){.travel-head,.travel-grid,.travel-end{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,40rem) minmax(0,1fr)}.travel-contents{display:none}.travel-grid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,40rem) minmax(0,17rem);justify-content:center}.travel-body{grid-column:1}.travel-rail{grid-column:2}}@media(max-width:900px){.travel-article{width:calc(100% - 32px)}.travel-head,.travel-grid,.travel-end{display:block}.travel-head{padding:34px 0 28px}.travel-head h1{font-size:clamp(2rem,8.6vw,2.7rem);line-height:1.06;letter-spacing:-.04em}.travel-head__standfirst{margin-top:18px;font-size:1.12rem}.travel-byline{margin-top:24px;gap:12px}.travel-byline__portrait,.travel-byline__monogram{width:44px;height:44px}.travel-lead{width:100vw;margin-left:calc(50% - 50vw);aspect-ratio:4/3;max-height:none}.travel-grid{display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding-top:32px}.travel-contents{display:none}.travel-rail{display:contents}.at-a-glance{order:1;width:100%;margin-bottom:32px}.travel-body{order:2;font-size:1.0625rem;line-height:1.7}.travel-body>p:first-of-type{font-size:1.19rem;line-height:1.58}.travel-context{order:3;width:100%;margin-top:28px!important}.travel-end{margin-top:40px}.travel-end__portrait,.travel-end__monogram{width:60px;height:60px}.travel-related ol,.travel-related ol[data-count]{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:28px 16px}.travel-related strong{font-size:1rem}}@media(max-width:420px){.travel-related ol,.travel-related ol[data-count]{grid-template-columns:1fr}.travel-related a{grid-template-columns:7.5rem minmax(0,1fr);grid-template-rows:auto 1fr;column-gap:14px;row-gap:4px;align-items:start}.travel-related__media{grid-row:1 / span 2}.travel-related__format{margin:0}}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.travel-related__media img{transition:none}}